Abseiling when climbing: how to handle multi-pitch routes

Frau mit rotem Kletterhelm lässt sich beim Klettern abseilen.

Alpine sales advisor, Transa store Europaallee Zurich

Published on: 29.11.2023Updated on: 20.11.2024

You’ve got all the equipment you need, from rope to carabiners and safety devices. Now, you want to abseil down safely after completing a multi-pitch tour. In the video, sales advisor Beni reveals how.

When you’re climbing, the ascent is only part of the adventure. Once you’ve made it to the top, you can enjoy the view and maybe have something to eat or drink. But at some point, you need to get back down – so planning the descent is just as important as planning the ascent. You need enough energy and the right technique for this, too. In the video, sales advisor Beni reveals how to correctly abseil on a tour. Of course, this video is no substitute for a course: for your own safety, practice abseiling with professionals or experienced climbers.

Abseiling correctly – here’s how:

This video was created in collaboration with our colleagues at Höhenfieber in a climbing park in Ticino.

Nahaufnahme von einem Prusikknoten für das Abseilen auf Mehrseillänge. — Photo © Severin Karrer

Abseiling mnemonic: ‘SKIMS’

This helps you remember the order of what to do when abseiling:

S ecure – belay yourself with the standing sling

K not – tie a Prusik knot onto the rope as an autobloc

I nstall the abseiling equipment – hang it on

M ake your final checks – examine the distance between the Prusik and the abseil brake

S tanding slings need to be undone – then enjoy your abseil down!

Take the weather into account and construct a secure belaying station

The right technique isn’t all you need: make sure you have a good belaying station, too. This will give you peace of mind so you can calmly prepare the rope for your descent.

Keep an eye on the ends of the rope: they need to reach to the ground or the nearest station. There are pros and cons of tying a knot at the end of the rope. On the one hand, it’ll stop your abseil if your rope is too short. However, it can also get caught on the wall more easily. Take both sides into consideration and weigh your options.

This equipment might not be perfect for every climber, as everyone is a different weight and has different levels of hand strength. If you’re working with a low-friction combination, such as those with thin rope, adding a second carabiner to your abseiling equipment will increase friction.

It’s trickier if the rope is wet or icy, which reduces friction. Adding an additional carabiner to your abseiling equipment boosts the friction. So, if you’re planning a route alone for the first time, pay heed to the weather forecast as well as your kit.