Constructing a belay station when climbing: video instructions

On Alpine climbing routes, you’ll often need a belaying station sooner or later. It functions as the safe haven for your entire roped party, a place where you can take a short break, relax your arms and legs, and enjoy the view. On longer tours, you might be able to have a bite to eat or drink or reapply your sunscreen at the belay station.

The belay station also needs to hold people if they fall – whether they’re leading or following. So, it’s doubly important to be able to build a secure belay station.

Video tutorial: constructing a belay station

In the video, mountain guide Fabian explains how to use rope, carabiners and an express to easily build your own belay station. This variant requires two bolts to be affixed to the route. Plus, the mountain guide shares tips on how best to communicate with your friends when on the rock face.

This video offers an initial insight into constructing a secure belay station, but it’s no substitute for courses or instruction. So, practice the process calmly on the ground and seek help from a professional. In addition, prepare your body by doing the right training.

Abseiling commands

Once you’ve built your belay station and are ready to go abseiling, you need to tell your friends on the ground. It’s crucial that you agree on these commands beforehand. If you’re within hearing distance, communication is usually fairly straightforward. For instance, just shout your friend’s name and say ‘standing’, so the belaying person knows you’re secure at the top. The normal protocol for abseiling involves the person at the belay station shouting the name of the person below and the command ‘Ready to lower’.

It’s important that you speak all the commands clearly, especially if the wind is distorting your voice or traffic noise makes it harder to hear what’s being said. If you’re not sure, you’re best off asking your interlocutor to repeat themselves. After all, the command for more rope (‘rope’) and the potential answer (‘no’) might sound very similar a few metres below.

Non-verbal commands can help if you can’t hear each other. For instance, the person at the belaying station could tug on the rope three times if they’re ready to abseil down.