Crevasse rescue using an anchor: ice screws and T-slot

You’re well prepared as you start the alpine tour. The sun is shining, you’re progressing well and heading towards the summit in a rope team. And then suddenly it happens – someone falls into a crevasse! However well planned you are, it can always happen. That’s why you must rehearse crevasse rescues before your first tour.

Using a pulley, you can extricate the person who has fallen into the crevasse. But this is only possible if you can place an anchor – in both firn and ice. In the video, mountain guide Fabian from Bergschule Höhenfieber (Höhenfieber mountaineering school) explains how it’s done.

To ensure that the T-slot anchor holds securely, dig down to a depth of 30 to 50 centimetres. If the firn is loose, dig a little deeper. Securing behind you with an additional person makes the anchoring even more secure.

The strength of anchoring with an ice pick depends greatly on the condition of the snow. As a guide, you should note the following: In very soft snow, the belay holds about 80 kilograms; in compact, dense snow up to 600 kilograms.

Using ice screws correctly

Ice screws provide a secure hold and are ready to use quickly. The following tips will help you to use the screw correctly.

• The inside of the ice screw must be free of snow before you start turning it into the ice.

• Insert the ice screw at a right angle to the ice.

• After five to six turns, the screw will grip and you can now turn the handle.

• Make sure that a compact ice core extends from the centre of the screw. This ensures that the screw is actually fixed in the ice and that you are not turning it into trapped air. If you realise that you are boring into an air pocket, look for another spot.

Pay attention to the ground when you are anchoring

Your alpine tour will probably not take you exclusively through snow and ice. A crevasse fall can also happen on rocky terrain. To anchor yourself securely, you can set up a belay station, for example.