Alpine touring: how crevasse rescues using pulleys work

On an Alpine tour, you want to enjoy nature, soak up the views of glaciers and mountain peaks, and push yourself to your limits. One thing you doubtless don’t want to do is fall into a crevasse. However, this danger is very real. Even if you’re secured to a rope, you’ve got to have the right technique so the rescue can be effected.

Alongside the right knowledge, you also need the requisite material to quickly rescue someone from a crevasse once they’ve fallen in. This includes a rope, several carabiners, cord and a non-return device. Once you have this, you can use a fixed anchor point and a tape loop to pull the person back up after they’ve fallen. In the video, mountain guide Fabian explains how to use a pulley to effect a crevasse rescue. If you use the right technique, this approach helps you to pull up a large amount of weight without a great deal of exertion. 

Crevasse rescues using a pulley: made simple

Alpine touring school, courses and planning

However, this set of instructions on its own isn’t enough, of course. It’s crucial that you practice scenarios like this in a safe environment, such as during a training session. The video was made in collaboration with our colleagues at Bergschule Höhenfieber, a mountain school. The Alpine tour took us from the Sustenpass pass to the Tierberglihütte hut, and from there to the front face of the Tierberg. Höhenfieber runs various courses and Alpine tours to learn more.

Or have you already gone on an Alpine tour, and are keen to plan your own? You can find tips on clothing, protection and safety here. All that’s left for you to do is to pack your backpack and set off.