Hiking from Chamonix to Zermatt – the Valais Haute Route

A standard tour report wouldn’t pass muster here. Because the adventure that Noah, Nik and Fabio took on wasn’t really about lugging heavy backpacks over 14 demanding days. Noah is no ordinary flatlander. He is also attracted by the variety of landscapes, introspective solitude, but most of all the emotions involved in the adventure.

The route

But first things first: Noah chose to hike the Valais Haute Route with two close friends. That there are countless variations of this legendary long-distance hike is well known. Noah chose his very own special route. As someone inspired by visuals, it was the photos in the book ‘Wanderlust. Unterwegs auf legendären Wegen’ (Wanderlust. Walking legendary routes) that sowed the seed for the whole idea. The route he took traversed protected areas, barren mountain scenery and isolated regions. But also went through delightful landscapes offering contrasts for both the eye and the soul.

They’re off: it’s all about your legs in the beginning because the flow aspect of long-distance hiking takes a few days to kick in. You find your rhythm, gradually get into a nice groove, you can reflect and enjoy yourself. Noah describes the start as quite daunting due to the masses of tourists. Chamonix and the surrounding area are breathtaking, the scenery intoxicating. Objectively, the scene is brimming with beauty, but subjectively, other aspects are more striking. We’ll say it straight up: not even the Matterhorn was the highlight. No, that mantle went to ‘the meadow with no name’ or ‘the standing still’. These aspects provided the real emotional appeal of this adventure. As time passed, the highlights in the hiking guide became more of a sideshow.

The human factor emerges

The first few kilometres are barely gone by before the human factor kicks in. Young Noah’s knee hurts. Convenient, then, that his mate is training to become a physiotherapist. No sooner is Noah’s pain under control than Nik opens up, swearing like a madman. You can feel a low point looming. The lunch break on day two brings a minor drama: the cooker attachment is nowhere to be found. After the ordeal of the first few days, the lads rifle through the backpacks several times, and the first signs of despair are palpable. They also realise that, even with the best will in the world, nuts and mango slices won’t suffice for what lies ahead. And that’s when the group dynamic collapses: Nik’s true emotions come out, Fabio remains admirably calm and Noah loses heart. But these differences are what make a strong team spirit. The trio pull themselves together and make it to the next hut. The friendly landlord has boiling water, and later in Champex the three of them buy a new cooker (no, unfortunately there is no Transa nearby).

Experience from previous tours and long-distance hikes can’t just be copied and pasted over, and the effort required by the young climbers each day is not be underestimated. Completing ascents and descents of around 1,000 metres a day are no mean feat, and the inexperienced group members start feeling the pressure: after four days and brimming with valuable memories, Nik finally makes the decision to drop out. Looking back, Noah and Fabio both openly admit: ‘We could definitely have done with a day of walking on the flat.’

When does the home stretch begin?

After around ten days, the Barrhorn forms a beacon of orientation and hankering for the finish. Once the challenging descent from the Barrhorn is licked, the strange urge to stall starts. What is that?! The sweet scent of home edges closer, the journey thereto becomes lighter. The desire to press on doesn’t subside, but the mood and mindset change. And at the latest by the time you reach the Pfulwe summit, with views of the Matterhorn, you really are almost home again. The two lads are here at nine in the morning and quickly decide to ease off instead of tearing towards Zermatt. A mindful farewell to the adventure is marked in the form of a planned fondue break on a rock.

Recalibrate

And what’s it like, arriving in Zermatt? Just like reaching a destination often is. You plan it, you eagerly anticipate it, you do it, you enjoy it, now and then you doubt you’ll ever make it and then – you’re there. No fuss, no fanfare, no nothing. But your sense of time and distance are out of kilter – or maybe just back to normal? Then the realisation that home in Bern is just a stone’s throw from Zermatt. Long-distance hikes make what’s close by seem further away. It will take the two friends a while to recalibrate to city life and the day-to-day. But first, a beer is in order.