Experience: solo trekking in the Uri Alps

The challenging Uri Alps circuit stretches over 360 kilometres and offers an impressive 53,000 metres of elevation gain if you want to complete all 40 stages. As it was my first solo adventure in the mountains, I wasn’t aiming to tackle the whole thing in one go. However, many stages of the Uri Alps can be completed as day trips or as a shorter multi-day tour. My first long-distance hike that I undertake alone is supposed to last four days, starting from the village of Göschenen. The plan is to go from hut to hut.

It is a cloudy Sunday morning when I leave. I tackle the ascent to the first hut, Salbithütte. Apart from the sound of my footsteps and the chirping and humming of the insects, it is quiet. I enjoy the peace surrounding me. I don’t mind not having a hiking guide or other company around. Instead, I am content to immerse myself in the beautiful Uri mountains. The path leads me past many Alpine pastures and becomes steeper as I continue. Time and again, I stop to look up at the sky. The weather forecast is not on my side. A challenging, yet spectacular part of the trail awaits me tomorrow: from the Salbithütte, my aim is to hike to another hut called the Voralphütte. There’s a 90-metre suspension bridge waiting for me there. After spending the night in the Voralphütte, I will then continue on to the next hut, the Bergseehütte.

Stubbornness versus reason

I make good progress and enjoy walking at my own pace. I let my mind wander. As I clamber the last few metres up to the hut, I am satisfied and hungry. My accommodation houses only a few guests tonight. The weather forecast has likely scared off quite a few hikers. It’s also the main topic of conversation inside the hut. I’m glad I have the chance to chat with others and get the hut warden’s opinion on the weather. He says I’ll have to get up very early when it’s still dark if I want to make the Voralphütte before the heavy showers move in. That’s pretty much the opposite of what I had in mind. Time to think things over before I make my decision. Every half hour I update the weather radar and take a good, long look at the route. I often go hiking in the mountains and am used to tours rated at T4 and T5 in terms of difficulty. I love the adventure and I’d say I’m not averse to taking a few risks. In situations like the one I’m facing now, it is the people I’m hiking with who often rein me in. Now that I’m on my own, I have to be the sensible one. It’s a challenge.

Flexible long-distance hiking

The next stage is a T4 route. It’s very difficult and has exposed sections with a risk of falling. If something happens to me, I’ll be on my own. I’m still torn about what to do when I sit down to play a board game with the other guests at the hut. I can’t really concentrate. I’m still mulling things over when I go to bed. Since the hut is almost empty, I have a ‘private room’ in a dorm with 12 beds. The wind is growing stronger outside and I find it hard to sleep. Two voices inside me go back and forth: my head doesn’t want to risk my personal safety, but my hiker’s heart was so looking forward to this section – and there’s no way I can simply turn around and go back after a day, especially on my first solo hike. How I’d love to have someone with me to weigh up the pros and cons. If I do want to do the route, I need to set the alarm and leave when it’s basically still night time. After chewing it over a little more, I make a decision: I’m not going to tackle the next stage with the weather looking so poor. But I don’t want to go home either. And so the compromise: I inform the hut warden at the Voralphütte that I’m not coming and inform his colleague at the Bergseehütte that I’m coming one night earlier.

The next morning I descend again and follow a route from the valley to the Bergseehütte. I feel I can handle this, even when it starts to rain. So there I am, on my own again, accompanied by the sound of rain tapping against my hood. Down in the valley, I meet two farmers driving cows in front of them. They are clearly curious and ask me what prompted me to head out in this weather. We talk for a while. It’s a nice encounter, one that I’m sure I wouldn’t have had if I’d been walking with a companion. Walking solo has the advantage that I interact more with strangers, as I found yesterday at the hut.

A steep zigzag path leads me from the emerald-green Göscheneralpsee lake up to the Bergseehütte. Once I arrive, I have to hang up my wet clothes to dry. That leaves plenty of time before dinner. After not talking to anyone for a couple of hours while out in the world, I’m looking forward to having a chat. And I’m finally okay with the decision I made that morning.

Not the preferred route

The next day is still overcast, but at least it’s dry. I take a moment to enjoy the view of the reservoir. Today I’m doing at least part of my planned route. I set off eastwards, soon leave the path leading away from the hut, and follow the blue-and-white markings on large boulders at an altitude of around 2,600 metres. This takes me all the way to the Bergeseelücke, a mountain saddle. The landscape is barren yet impressive with its many different types of lichen and rocks. Eventually I turn around and hike back to the Bergseehütte, where I spend the night that I originally booked.

While descending the next day, I make a detour around Göscheneralpsee lake. As I walk, I wonder how much of my originally planned route I actually managed to do. My rough estimate is about two-thirds. Unfortunately, I missed out on the most spectacular part. Still, I’m satisfied. Next time I’ll choose a slightly easier route. After all, being on the trail alone is always a risk, as I’ve become aware of again in the last few days. Nevertheless, I’m already looking forward to my next solo hike. That hike to the Voralphütte, the part I couldn’t complete because of the weather, is still on my agenda. But I won’t do it alone. I’ll go with some hiking buddies...