Ice climbing in Kandersteg - tour description

The alarm goes off at 5.30 am. Breakfast at 6 am. Then we’re off to the cable car. Another cable car takes us up to Sunnbüel at 7.00 am. Once we reach the top, we carry out a safety check. Shovel and probe are packed, the avalanche transceiver is activated. Then off we trudge. No need for snowshoes, the path towards Spittelmatte is prepared, we can just follow the signposts.

The ascent takes about 40 minutes and we pass several icefalls on the way. Together with our mountain guide Andi, we opt for one towards the end of the route. We strap on our crampons for the traverse to the foot of the wall. First lesson learned: make sure all the spikes are touching the ground. This means walking on your entire foot, not just on one edge. Now that we’ve reached the wall, Andi explains what else we should look out for.

Tackling the ice with ice picks and screws

The icefall above us is considered a good place for beginners. Not too steep, not too demanding, modest pitches.

Andi now gives us some insight into climbing technique. Climbers always need to plan their movements ahead. Adopting a stable starting position makes your next move easier. Stretch out your blocking arm to reach a higher position with your feet. Then straighten your legs – pulling on both ice picks for extra support. Your body’s centre of gravity remains below the ice pick. Now strike the ice from a stable position with focus, poise and precision. Never strike with the ice pick at an angle – always vertically. Check the strength of the ice pick.

Now it’s time to work those feet again. Always have your feet at a 90° angle with your heel hanging just a little. So that’s climbing technique, and now we’ll be inserting the ice screws. You insert the screws at hip height. A 90° angle is your best bet in most situations. When the ice quality is very good, you can also proceed with the screw hanging at about 10 degrees. It should grip the ice nicely after two or three twists. Now you can screw it in with the foldable crank.

Extreme conditions and poor visibility

After Andi gives on the most important instructions, followed by a successful equipment check and a nice cup of tea to warm us up, the mountain guide climbs the first route and inserts the ice screws. I lead the climb with Lea following behind. I don’t want to comment on the weather, but somehow I feel the urge to point out the extreme conditions we’re facing: it’s cold and wet. Those of us not climbing put on layer after layer until they can’t fit any more clothes on. We’re greeted by snow and ice from above on more than one occasion. Visibility is so bad you can barely see the next ice screw in front of you. Whiteout. Despite all this, it’s an adventure and a good experience to be up close and personal with the ice. Amazing that you can place so much trust in something that’s usually a liquid!

The fog is so thick we nearly get lost on the way back. We have a quick rest and, feeling somewhat re-energised, we head back towards the Sunnbüel mountain station. Happy and satisfied, with ice crystals in our hair, we take the gondola back down to civilisation.