Snowshoe tour to the Lobhörner

Sunday, 10 am, in Isenfluh: we greet each other with happy anticipation. Even Laya the dog is here. Travelling with a dog? Not everyone’s cup of tea – but as it turns out, even Tamar will get used to it. We take the cable car to Sulwald and from there climb up through sparse fir forest and boulders towards our cabin.

We feel like we’re in a fairytale forest. We’re in Chüebodmi, a small, open plateau with a view of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau – and we’re enchanted. A cold wind bites into the sunny winter weather. Nevertheless, we can’t resist taking the little detour via Alp Suls. After an hour and a half, we reach the Lobhorn cabin (1,954 metres above sea level).

Irene, the cabin warden, welcomes us with a delicious blackberry tart. She and Talak, who’s from Nepal, are the couple who run the cosy cabin. Today, as an exception, there’s a special menu for us: momos. We don’t need to be asked twice; while the wind whistles outside, we set about preparing the dumplings in the kitchen. We have great company and conversation as we work under the guidance of the expert.

After a hard-earned dinner (making momos is time-consuming), we help with the washing up and finish off the day with a game of rummy. Meanwhile, a gale-force snowstorm rages outside.

Today, a route in the Lobhörner region beckons. We wake up at 6 am. Snow flurries and snowfall await us. Mountain guide Stéphane goes through the route and key stages with us over breakfast.

We’re ready and, after checking our avalanche transceivers, we set off. After the first few steps: uh oh – it seems Tamar has caught something! Suffering from flu symptoms, she turns back with a heavy heart. We admire her self-diagnosis. Our number reduced, we set off for the first key stage: the steep section up to the Schärihubel (2,124 metres above sea level). One steep section further on, always walking at a safe distance, we reach Höji Sulegg (2,413 metres above sea level). What a view! Lake Brienz and Lake Thun at our feet, the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau in sight. But there’s more to come! Via Sulegggrat (a safe but spectacular ridge hike), we reach Nideri Sulegg. The weather conditions alternate between wind, snow and sun. During our lunch break next to the lake of Sulsseewli, we all agree touring in snowshoes is a blissful experience. And the varied weather contributes to the incredible atmosphere.

We spend the second night in a tent. We quickly find a good spot for the bivouac – somewhat sheltered from the wind, with a beautiful view. We use a probe to determine the depth of the snow, then create a level surface with our snowshoes. And soon the tent is up.

The wintry night in the tent is a first for Isabelle. But what’s going to happen when you’re with experienced colleagues? You’ll hardly freeze; we all have our own secret weapons. Raja swears by an inlet, Isabelle has an emergency bivy sack and I know the drinking bottle trick. After some Bolognese out of a packet, we’re soon in our sleeping bags.

Early in the morning, we admire the view under the starry sky and then descend at a leisurely pace. And we’re back in civilization again.