Which climbing shoes do I need for bouldering? When are climbing shoes too tight? Is there a difference between shoes for climbing and bouldering? Here’s an overview of the most important aspects of climbing shoes.
First of all, climbing shoes must fit your foot, your skill level and where you plan to use them. This means that climbing shoes should be relatively comfortable, match your climbing level and fit your preferred activity – whether that’s the indoor climbing gym, bouldering gym or outside on the rock.
Climbing shoes are available in different variations, sizes and widths. It’s very rare for a model to be exclusively for climbing or bouldering. Rather, choosing a suitable shoe is much more dependent on your climbing level and whether you tend to climb indoors or outdoors.
Broadly speaking, there are two main types of climbing shoes – flat and those with pretension or downturn. As a general rule, the more trained your feet are, the better you can influence the shoe with your toes, and the harder the shoe, the more support it offers.
Choosing the right climbing shoe isn’t so straightforward – they should be snug, but not painful. The following tips will help you find the right size.
When wearing a climbing shoe, watch out for…
Climbing shoes are worn without socks, so keep this in mind when trying on your shoes and don’t try them on with anything more than nylon stockings.
Sizing varies greatly depending on the brand. Try various models from different brands before purchasing your climbing shoes.
Leather climbing shoes stretch out somewhat over time, while shoes made of synthetic materials retain their shape.
A test wall can help you better assess the climbing shoes. Climb a few moves to get a feel for the shoes.
When it comes to your feet, pay attention to…
Your feet are not exactly the same size; keep this in mind when trying on the shoes.
Try on your climbing or bouldering shoes in the afternoon. Feet swell over the course of the day, so if they fit in the early morning, they may be too small in the evening. Foot size also varies slightly depending on temperature: feet are slightly larger in warmer temperatures than in colder ones.
Your toes have less space in climbing shoes than in sneakers, but should not hurt or feel squeezed.
Your heels should be firmly locked in the climbing shoe and should not slip.
The sole of climbing shoes is made of rubber; the hardness varies depending on the composition. It tends to be harder for shoes with pretension than for flat shoes. For climbing, this means that you’ll have a better feeling for the rock or wall under your feet with softer soles. But you’ll have a better grip on small footholds with harder soles.
The shoes themselves are made of either leather or synthetic fabrics. Leather stretches and adjusts to your foot over time. However, the shoe becomes heavy if you sweat heavily, because the leather absorbs sweat. Climbing shoes made of synthetic fabrics, on the other hand, are usually lighter and dry quickly, but do not mould well to your feet.
When you find the right climbing shoes, you’ll want to keep them for a long time – however, over time, the sole wears out. If the shoe upper is still intact, it’s worth resoling. Depending on the model, this costs between CHF 79 and CHF 99.
In general, you can climb indoors and outdoors with any climbing shoe or bouldering shoe. However, soft climbing shoes tend to be more suitable for climbing or bouldering in a gym, on large holds. Stiffer shoes are better for climbing on small footholds outdoors.
Regardless of whether you’d rather be indoors or outdoors, you should consider whether you prefer bouldering/climbing short routes, or whether you want to go multi-pitching. For short routes, advanced climbers use climbing shoes with a strong pretension or downturn; for longer routes, they use flatter, more comfortable shoes. For newcomers, flat, more comfortable shoes are generally better.
Special rubber on the heel and/or toes of the climbing shoes allow you to create what’s known as heel hooks and toe hooks, which is when you secure yourself on holds or structures with your heel or the tips of your toes. The rubber provides extra grip and protects the shoes from wear. This is mainly used for bouldering and difficult rock climbing routes.
After climbing, clean your shoes of dirt and dust before stowing them away. It’s best to use a soft brush or damp cloth for this. Then let them dry well at room temperature. Don’t wash your climbing shoes in the washing machine – this can damage the material.
Like many other outdoor items, it’s best to store your climbing shoes in a cool and dry place outside of direct sunlight; this protects the material. Additionally, make sure that you don’t store the climbing shoes under your climbing rope or other shoes, as the pressure can cause the shoes to deform.
There are three different types of fastening systems for climbing shoes; the most common are Velcro fasteners, laces or slipper models. Here’s an overview of the pros and cons of the different systems.
As with adults, the following applies to climbing shoes for children: snug, but not painful. With climbing shoes for children, a good fit is even more important than with adults, because foot development is still ongoing, and shoes that are too tight could negatively impact this. Adjustable closures are important: they allow you to optimally adjust the size of the climbing shoe to the feet. A robust toe cap protects the toes while climbing.
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