Rainer Eder
Bouldering, multi-pitch climbs, deep-water soloing: Menorca offers a diverse range of untouched landscapes for all this and more. We went on a three-man hunt for spots, just for you.
Climbing in Menorca offers a broad choice with bouldering, multi-pitch climbs and deep-water soloing to keep you busy. Here are some of the best spots on the island.
We (that’s Pesche, Sven and me) began our climbing trip to Menorca at the red boulder blocks near Penya de s’Indi. With crash pads strapped to our backs and a ten-minute approach, we found an enormous variety of bouldering problems of different levels.
From slab boulders, crimps and slopers to the five-metre-high handle hole wall, you can find everything in this bouldering region.
Sven had to have a go too and worked hard on a variety of routes. The goal? To climb as many as possible. Alberto, a local bouldering hall operator and industrial climber, also took the opportunity to climb with the Swiss team. He was worth his weight in gold!
Our next stop was the Escalofrios sector in the Cala en Porter climbing area, which currently offers 13 routes, although not all of them are confirmed. You climb 60 metres above the sea in scenery that couldn’t be more beautiful, especially at sunset. The belay is attached to a ledge below a mighty protrusion, which means short routes and lots of overhang. This calls for strength! And that’s not really my strength, it’s more Sven’s thing (Combalubas 8a).
We climbed as long as our strength and the daylight allowed and enjoyed the last rays of sunshine in this magical place.
We got up early the next day for good reason: we were off to do some deep-water soloing (unsecured free climbing over deep water) in Cala Rafalet. An unforgettable highlight! Alberto is an absolute expert and on his home island he tackles this special climbing discipline with plenty of gusto. His passion instantly infected us all.
Deep water soloing comes with its own set of challenges. If the wind changes direction, the spray can suddenly dampen the rock. It’s best not to do it if the sea is rough.
The equipment is also an issue for deep water soloing: we don’t need a normal chalk bag. Liquid chalk is a solution, or if necessary you can use a chalk bag without an inner lining. Pesche recommended slippers made of synthetic material as the rubber sole withstands moisture well. When it comes to clothing, anything that doesn’t get too soaked and dries quickly is fine. If you fall into the water, you’ll be happy that you don’t have much ballast and you might want to make a second attempt.
I really got into Menorcan climbing in the Ses Penyes sector in the southern Llucalari region. I was looking forward to the vertical walls. The grippy rock and movements got me into a good climbing flow. The key section, a slightly overhanging rock face, required strength, technique, balance and concentration. My dream route!
Good preparation is not so easy in Menorca: there is a guidebook, but not all routes have been included.
We were all pleasantly surprised by Menorca. Mallorca’s little sister offers so much and its climbing spots never disappoint. Multi-pitch routes are rare, although a few had been set up for training purposes. What’s particularly cool is that you can climb limestone on the coast, while inland you’ll find sandstone.
(With the TransaCard always free of charge)