Everything you need to know before your first snowshoeing tour

They distribute your body weight across a wider area, reducing how deep you sink into the snow. A built-in crampon and the profile on all sides also give you grip on steep terrain.

You can get started on a marked winter hiking trail specifically signposted for snowshoeing, for example. Begin with a route that’s not too steep so that you can concentrate on the slightly unfamiliar way of walking.

We’re often asked whether snowshoes have a left and a right – they do. Here’s how you can tell: the straps for adjusting the binding are always on the outside. Ideally, the binding also has a climbing aid. You fold out this bar to apply more pressure to the snowshoe on ascents. The ergonomics of the shoe also benefit if it sits horizontally despite the incline.

You get used to the snowshoes very quickly, even if your muscles feel sore after the first tour. You walk with your legs a little wider apart, a bit like an old cowboy.

In untouched deep snow, the first person should make the first tracks, i.e. stomp the snow down to make it firm. This makes it easier for the second person. This also helps to balance out different fitness levels – whoever is fitter can make the tracks. When planning the route, it’s also important to strike the right balance between gradient and distance. If you sprint straight up the mountain, you need a huge amount of strength. And if you shy away from tackling the gradient, you’ll need an awful lot of time.

Before venturing off the paved path into the exposed deep snow, you need to carefully consider the potential dangers. These can include avalanches, but also treeholes. These are cavities around tree trunks that are hidden by branches. If you accidentally fall in head first, it’s hard to get back on your feet.

Modern snowshoes don’t just prevent you from sinking into the snow on flat terrain: they also provide grip on steep slopes. This requires front spikes under the binding and side profiles to prevent slipping sideways when traversing slopes.

Our snowshoe range is extensive. We broadly distinguish between snowshoes with an aluminium frame plus covering and those made entirely of plastic in different widths and lengths. We also have special snowshoes for children and teenagers.

Aluminium frames suit flat to slightly sloping terrain with lots of powdery snow. Plastic snowshoes are more robust and offer a really secure grip. They particularly suit hard or crusty snow because they are stiff and they distribute pressure over a wide area. This is why they are especially good for alpine tours. You can compare them to a crampon-compliant alpine shoe: extremely stable, but a bit too much for normal hiking.

The snowshoes in our range have the foot moving vertically in a hinge. For fastening, MSR uses a system of straps or the Paragon binding, a type of mesh that can be flattened when not in use. This makes it easy to attach the snowshoes to the rucksack. Tubbs favours the convenient BOA system. A dial mechanism allows you to tighten a lace that is looped several times and fixes the boot with a kind of roof. Choosing the right binding is a matter of personal preference. It’s best to bring a trekking or winter shoe with you to try on. We can then see which binding is most suitable.

No, snowshoes offer grip in all situations, including descents. However, in loose snow and with the right gradient, you can run downhill in a way that feels a bit like flying. That said, there’s currently a lot of work going on behind the scenes, and in two or three years’ time we could see models that are suitable for downhill skiing.

We can repair your snowshoes depending on the damage. You can bring your equipment in to us at the repairs workshop. But your snowshoes will probably last a long time compared to a lot of other sports equipment.

Heavier snowshoers carrying lots of luggage need a large surface area so that they don’t sink into the snow. In such cases, models that you can adapt to different conditions using an extension are practical. We have narrower and wider snowshoes in our range. Anyone with shorter legs is usually better off with narrow snowshoes.

We have snowshoes and avalanche safety equipment available in all our to hire branches.

We recommend shoes with:

• A sturdy sole

• Robust outer material

• A waterproof and breathable membrane

• Sufficient space for thicker socks

Any hiking boot that meets these criteria is suitable. If your feet get cold quickly, you should wear insulated shoes. Only very few hiking boots provide this. We also have special winter hiking boots in our range that are ideal for snowshoeing. They are warmer and have a grippier sole for when you take your snowshoes off. They also have a higher shaft, making it harder for snow to get in. You can also add gaiters to your hiking boots for a snowshoe tour.

For your snowshoe tour you need:

• Good trekking poles with a comfortable hand strap and snow plates

• Backpack, approx. 25-litre volume

• Sunglasses to prevent snow blindness, or ski goggles with light-coloured lenses for very harsh conditions

• Gloves

• Knit cap 

• Trousers

• Softshell jacket 

• Thermos bottle  

• For alpine tours: full avalanche equipment kit

• Headlamp in case the tour lasts longer than planned and you’re still out at dusk

No. If you’re snowshoeing on winter hiking trails, just wear what you would for a brisk walk in sub-zero temperatures. If you’re heading for higher altitudes or want to really push yourself, choose ski touring clothing. Ortovox, Mammut and other outfitters have everything you need for layering. The first layer against your skin is a long base layer made from synthetic fibres or merino wool. This absorbs the sweat and wicks it outwards over a large area. The second layer transports the sweat away and provides insulation. In cold temperatures, this layer is slightly thicker or doubled up. And if it’s warm, you can leave it out completely. A softshell is recommended as the outermost layer. The material is breathable, windproof and either water-repellent or waterproof. If it rains on your snowshoeing tour, you’ll probably need a hardshell jacket. This is slightly less breathable, but 100 percent waterproof.

If you are leaving paved and monitored routes, you should get clued up on the subject of avalanches. And in the mountains, you definitely need avalanche transceiver equipment, regardless of whether you are on snowshoes, skis or a splitboard. Avalanche transceivers are used to locate – and hopefully rescue – avalanche victims. Everyone needs an avalanche beeper for this. This sends and receives signals. Once the buried person has been located, you use the probe to pinpoint their exact position and dig the person out as quickly as possible.

But beware: an avalanche transceiver can sometimes give you a false sense of security. Don’t take any risky decisions if you have the device. You’d be better served attending an avalanche training course and then regularly practising using the avalanche transceiver.

In Switzerland, you are generally allowed to go snowshoeing anywhere. But there are a few rules that you must follow.

• Respect wildlife sanctuaries and nature reserves.

• Stay on established paths and signposted routes in the forest.

• Avoid forest edges and snow-free areas.

• Keep your dog on a lead – especially in the forest.

Of course. But when you plan these tours, remember that the ascent and descent are more strenuous and therefore take longer than a skiing tour.

The most stylish way to spend the night is in an igloo, of course. This has the benefit of you only having to pack a light snow saw instead of a heavy tent. You might also need less clothing for the night, as temperatures in the igloo are normally around zero degrees. The flip side is the length of time it takes to set up. Whereas you only need a few minutes to erect a tent, building an igloo takes a lot longer. A good alternative is a snow cave, which you dig into the side of a cornice. But mountain huts and wellness hotels obviously also welcome snowshoe hikers.